- Poker Guide
- Learn to Play Poker: Getting Started
- Poker Game Variations
- Texas Hold ‘em Guide
- Learn to Play Texas Hold ‘em
- Hold ‘em Gameplay
- Texas Hold ‘em Strategy
- Beginner Hold ‘em Strategy
- Intermediate Hold ‘em Strategy
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Online Texas Holdem Strategy
Short & midstack Texas Hold'em Strategy. Although deep stack poker is the most complex version of No Limit, that does not mean that short stack strategy and midstack strategy are easy. In fact there are a lot short stack No Limit and midstack No Limit considerations that are just as important to master as in deep play. They come with a cost and the chance of succeeding with hands like these are small. Short stacked play means you need to get your money all-in with a big pair or big connectors and hope to win by making top pair with a strong kicker. Don’t Limp-in if You’re Short Stacked. If you are a short stack, you’ll need to avoid the temptation to. Texas Hold'em is a tricky casino game. Here we discuss the strategy of playing small pocket pairs & when it's best to use it to better your odds at winning.
Once you’ve figured out basic and intermediate Texas Hold ‘em strategies, it’s time to move on to more advanced theories. As is the case at any level of sophistication, you’ll want to adapt complex strategies to your own natural style. But for those who have mainly spent their formative poker hours learning to value hands properly and avoid dangerous situations, the next level of poker thinking involves reading and understanding your opponents on a deeper level and employing more aggressive tactics.
Doyle Brunson’s Super System
Any discussion of advanced Hold ‘em strategy has to begin with the Holy Bible of power poker, Doyle Brunson’s Super System. Originally published in 1979, the book was actually a collaboration that includes sections by other poker legends like Mike Caro and Chip Reese. However, it was Brunson’s section on No-limit Hold ‘em that made the book such a masterpiece.
Of all the ways Brunson’s work changed the game, it was his explanation of “Power Poker” that truly broke new ground. He showed that you didn’t need the goods to bet, instead detailing a strategy where it was the amount and timing of your bets – not the cards or making that one, great Steve McQueen-esque read – that made the difference between winning and losing. He also explicated the now common notions of playing position and building your stack by winning small pots so you can use it as equity to gamble on a draw later in the game.
Other Advanced Strategy Resources
There are several other books that provide advice to take your game to the next level. Some of the most well-known are No Limit Hold ‘em: Theory and Practice, by David Sklansky & Ed Miller; a classic co-authored by Dan Harrington & Bill Robertie – Cash Games, and Harrington’s series - Harrington on Hold ‘em; and Mike Caro’s Book of Poker Tells by Mike Caro, which is an excellent primer on reading opponents.
You can also take a look at Big Fish’s Poker Books article for more suggestions. Or, if you want to discuss poker strategy with other players on the web, you can go to forums like Card Runners and Cards Chat.
Reading Your Opponents, and Being Unreadable
Observation is as important in poker as knowing the order of hands. By watching your opponents closely you can pick up a specific tell, like a facial tic or tapping of the finger, and get an overall impression of their attitude and style of play – the cards they play, how they act when they’re winning, when they’re losing.
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Another advantage to observing opponents is that it might clue you in on your own tells. The more aware you are of other people’s mistakes, the easier it is to correct your own. Self-awareness can be just as useful as observation.
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Varying the hands you play and how you play them is yet another necessary strategy for throwing your opponents off. Previously, you may have always played ace-king or pocket tens the same way every time you saw them. When playing against good players that practice will make you very readable.
As you get more comfortable with your game, try different tactics with the same hand depending on position and timing. Try re-raising before the flop with pocket jacks, to avoid seeing a flop full of overcards. Try calling a raise with ace-king, so no one can put you on a hand that big. Then change it up the next time, hiding or over-representing your strength as the situation calls for.
You’ll also need to be willing to play garbage hands, like 8-5 offsuit, under the “any two cards” theory. Sometimes, it’s not the cards you’re playing, it’s the people. If you have a good read on someone, and a positional advantage, you may want to jump in with anything, just to see if you can hit a flop or outplay your opponent.
Advanced Mathematical Theory for Hold ‘em
Using math in poker, including incredibly complex ideas like Game Theory, can vastly improve your game. Of course, it is also one of the most difficult concepts to grasp. Thankfully, much of it involves simple memorization – knowing which hands have how much of an advantage over others, what your odds are of hitting your draw, etc.
A better understanding of how to utilize math will also help you get a better handle on important concepts like pot odds (the ratio of the size of the pot to a contemplated call) and fold equity (a calculation made when short-stacked in a no-limit or pot-limit game that determines the equity you gain when an opponent folds to your bet).
There are also a number of resources that can give you basic odds and percentages to work off of, like the article in this guide, odds calculators that are widely available on the internet and the book Texas Hold’em Odds and Probabilities: Limit, No-Limit, and Tournament Strategies, by Matthew Hilger.
Advanced Bluffing Strategies
While many poker players will offer one piece of advice on bluffing – don’t – it has become a necessary tactic as the game has evolved in the past decade or so. Since you’ll have to bluff at least occasionally, there are a few things you’ll want to keep in mind.
- First, take stock of the atmosphere of your table and each opponent you’re playing against. If there’s someone at your table who calls down nearly every bet, wait until you have a good hand to get involved with them. There’s no use trying to push an immovable object.
If you choose to bluff, make sure you know how to read your opponents.
- Second, be ready to fully commit. Too many players start bluffing before or after the flop, then lose their nerve on the turn or river. If you’ve got a read on someone, and think you can push them off their hand, stick with it, even if it means risking a large percentage of your chip stack.
- Third, take a moment to analyze strength and weakness. If the table is showing weakness on a particular hand, or simply seems weak in general, that should be a signal to you that the time is ripe to bluff.
- Finally, make sure there is enough equity in the pot to pursue your bluff. You don’t want to start throwing a bunch of money in the middle when there isn’t anything in there to steal. If you’re going to bluff, be sure to do it on a hand where it is worth your while.
For further information, check out Big Fish’s Post-Flop Strategy article.
Advanced Raising Strategies
The raise is the most effective tactic in all of poker. It feels good to say. It feels good to shove a bunch of chips in the pot. And it feels especially good when it forces your opponents to fold, or, in the event you have the nuts, when they call. The two most prevalent raising strategies that would be considered advanced are the re-raise and the check raise.
Re-Raising
Re-raising is the most intimidating move you can make at a poker table. It usually involves a lot of money, so right away you’re going to get people’s attention, and it is almost always construed as a sign of extreme strength. Because of those factors, many people refrain from re-raising unless they have the nuts. But if you really want to take your game to the next level, look to re-raise at every reasonable opportunity.
Is there a big pot where the initial bet was small, and it was followed by another relatively small raise? If you sense even a little bit of weakness, jump in with a re-raise. Do you think someone else is trying to push you off your hand? Come back over the top of them. Even if you don’t take the hand down right there, you will have a much clearer picture of what your opponent is holding.
You don’t always have to wait until the next round to raise again.
Check Raising
Then there’s the check raise. Interestingly, it was the biggest change Brunson made to the Hold ‘em section between the original Super System and the updated 2004 version, Super System 2. Originally, he advised against it. But years later, once the game had changed, mainly in reaction to his first book, he found that it had become a useful tactic.
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Because the check raise is thought of as another very powerful move it can also be used to bluff. However, it gets the most utility when there are multiple players in the pot, you are in early position, have a very strong hand and use it to protect yourself from getting drawn out on.
For instance, if you’ve flopped a set, but there is a straight or a flush draw on board, check, let someone bet their draw or top pair, then when it comes back around to you put in a raise that will make the rest of the table choke. If you don’t take the pot down right there, you’re at least taxing people for trying to chase you down.
While all of these theories and techniques are important to becoming an advanced Hold ‘em player, the most effective way to become a master at the game is through experience. By taking these ideas and combining them with the lessons you’ve already learned from hours of play, the dream of finding yourself at the World Series of Poker, or sitting in front of a big pile of chips in an online or local cash game, can become a reality.
Limit Hold'em:
1. Longhand Limit
2. Shorthand Limit
3. Adv. Shorthand
No-Limit Hold'em:
1. Intro to NL
2. Advanced NL
3. Who Pays Off
4. Stack Sizes
5. Double Hold'em
Omaha:
1. Intro to Omaha
2. Low Limit Omaha
3. Intro to PLO
4. Omaha Hi/Lo
Tournaments:
1. Tourney Overview
2. Single-Table NL
3. Advanced NL STTs
4. Multi-Table NL
5. Multi-Table Limit
6. Tourney Variants
7. Knockout Tourneys
8. Ante Up Tourneys
Money Management:
1. Moving Limits
2. When to Quit
3. Short/Long Run
Other:
1. Intermediate Mistakes
2. Utilizing Promotions
In other languages:
1. Longhand Limit
2. Shorthand Limit
3. Adv. Shorthand
No-Limit Hold'em:
1. Intro to NL
2. Advanced NL
3. Who Pays Off
4. Stack Sizes
5. Double Hold'em
Omaha:
1. Intro to Omaha
2. Low Limit Omaha
3. Intro to PLO
4. Omaha Hi/Lo
Tournaments:
1. Tourney Overview
2. Single-Table NL
3. Advanced NL STTs
4. Multi-Table NL
5. Multi-Table Limit
6. Tourney Variants
7. Knockout Tourneys
8. Ante Up Tourneys
Money Management:
1. Moving Limits
2. When to Quit
3. Short/Long Run
Other:
1. Intermediate Mistakes
2. Utilizing Promotions
In other languages:
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However, the most important thing about stack sizes is how they affect implied odds. Implied odds is a fancy word for saying 'how much you can expect to win in the future if you make a good hand, taking into account the chance of hitting that strong hand.'
Let's say you hold 6 5 preflop. Your hand is not very strong. It is also doubtful that you will hit a strong hand at the flop, like a straight or trips. However, you have a good chance of hitting a draw, such as a flush draw or a straight draw. To win a lot of money on this draw, you will probably need to call a bet on the flop and see the turn and river to get the card you need to make a strong hand. If you hit a strong hand, you will want to bet a lot when you have the strong hand.
If the stack sizes are small, you cannot expect to win much if you chase a flush or straight draw. Speculative hands like suited connectors do well when people have large stack sizes, and they perform poorly when people have small stack sizes.
To be precise, here is what I consider to be small, medium, and large stack sizes:
Small stacks | 40 big blinds or fewer |
Medium stacks | 41 to 99 big blinds |
Large stacks | 100 big blinds or more |
You will see different buy-ins for different types of games. For most home games, people buy in for small stacks. A home game with $0.25-$0.50 blinds will typically have $10 to $20 buy-ins (20 to 40 big blinds). These are small stacks.
Brick-and mortar games have varying stack sizes. Nowadays, it seems that most places in Vegas restrict the buy-ins to about 40 big blinds, so people tend to have short or medium stacks. However, there are B&M games that do not cap the buy-ins, and people with 200-big-blind stacks are common. The games at online poker rooms tend to restrict buy-ins to 100 big blinds, so many people have fairly large stacks.
Stack sizes do more than just increase the value of speculative hands. They also tend to make the game fancier. Bluffing becomes a more valuable tool when people have larger stacks. You can threaten a much larger amount of money in relation to the pot when people have a lot of chips.
Suppose there is $10 in the pot. Your opponent's top pair is a marginal hand. While it will beat most hands, there is a lot on the board that massacres his hand (straight, two pair, top pair with higher kicker, etc.)
Suppose you bet $10. If your opponent has a $10 stack, he will call you, because he has so much already invested in the pot.
However, suppose your opponent has $100. He will be wary of calling. If he calls, and you fire another pot-sized bet on the turn, he will have to call $40 just to see the river. If you fire another pot-sized bet on the river, he stands to lose his entire stack due to his flimsy hand.
Large stacks increase the value of bluffing, which also means that marginal hands lose value. A hand like top pair will not get paid off when the stacks are large (except by draws or bluffs), because hands like middle pair are not going to pay off a large amount of money in relation to the pot.
Large stacks mean that fewer hands go to a showdown, and the ones that do are much more likely to involve powerful hands like straights, flushes, and sets.
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Next Article: Double Hold'em
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